How to Travel to Yemen: Border Crossings and Flights
Surfait, Yemen. The Yemeni border gate at the Surfait crossing with Oman. Matt Reichel.
Oman-Yemen Land Borders: Sarfait and Shehn
Currently, it is only possible to travel into southern Yemen via the border with Oman. Two highway border crossings are open: one on the southern coastal road called Sarfait, and the other in the Empty Quarter Desert between the Yemeni village of Shehn and the Omani town of Al Mazyunah.
The former border is generally used as an entry and exit point, whereas the desert crossing may only be used as an exit crossing from Yemen to Oman (it is not possible to enter Yemen from the Shehn crossing, but it’s easy to exit Yemen there).
The Yemen-Oman border regions-- Al Mahrah and Dhofar-- are culturally and geographically very similar. The people are South Arabian, many of whom still speak Mehri and Dhofari, the land is dry yet receive a Khareef (in August and September) of rain and greenery that follows, and are defined by sandy coastlines, good fishing resources, rocky mountains and vast deserts the further north you get.
The border crossing at Surfait is not particularly fussy, provided you have the correct paperwork in hand and your Yemeni guide is with you. From Salalah, the drive takes about two hours to the border on a windy, paved mountain road.
Travelling unescorted in Yemen is not recommended and may not even be possible, as there are numerous military checkpoints and multi-national (UAE and Saudi) interests in this part of Yemen, many of which will meticulously investigate and promptly deport an unaccompanied foreigner.
Yemeni visas are issued on the Sarfait border (for a $100 stamping fee), provided you’ve already received an approval letter from the Ministry of Tourism in Seiyun or Aden. Your local guide/fixer can get this for you with a scan of your passport and a couple of weeks of advanced notice.
To leave Yemen, you have a few options-- exit back in Surfait to Oman, exit from the desert highway in Shehn to Oman, or take one of the 5 (later decreased to 3, definitely check before your travel dates, as flight schedules change rapidly) weekly flights from Seiyun Airport to Cairo, Egypt. You may also exit via Socotra island on the once-weekly Monday Air Arabia flight to Abu Dhabi.
Note: border crossings into North Yemen from Saudi Arabia are currently closed to non-Yemenis. Tourists are also not permitted to enter Houthi-controlled territory for the time being.
Flights: Seiyun and Socotra
Seiyun is the economic centre of the Hadhramaut region of central Yemen. As Seiyun is largely controlled by the Saudi military, there are restrictions with flying into Seiyun-- meaning it’s not possible to fly from Cairo to Seiyun and actually exit the airport in Seiyun, unless you continue directly onto Socotra and clear Yemeni immigration on the island. However, it is not a problem to fly out of Yemen from Seiyun Airport.
Flights may be purchased directly from any Yemenia ticket-issuing office in advance in cash (Cairo and Kuwait City are easiest) but in order for your seat to actually be issued, you’ll need to supply the Yemenia office or your agent with a copy of your passport and your Yemeni visa in advance of your travel date (ideally two weeks in advance).
Another option altogether is to fly from Cairo or Abu Dhabi to Socotra Island. Yemenia flies from Cairo. During pre-pandemic times, this flight was on Wednesdays, with a brief security stop in Seiyun; however, it has yet to be restarted reliably since. However, a weekly domestic flight is still available on Yemenia connecting Seiyun with Socotra every Monday.
Air Arabia has a once-weekly direct flight from Abu Dhabi to Socotra and back to Abu Dhabi on Mondays. Be sure to check with the airline in advance to see if the flight is flying, as cancellations are known to happen.
Socotra has its own immigration department and they issue their own visas (needed before arrival, issued on an external document). This is a good option if you’d like to visit only Socotra island by air.
Ferry: Salalah to Socotra
Depending on the season there is a semi-regular cement boat that travels between the Omani port city of Salalah and Socotra island. The boat leaves when full, between 1-4 times per month in each direction.
It takes anywhere between 2-4 days to reach Socotra depending on weather and sea conditions. There are no services available on the boat. You have to bring your own food, water, and sleeping supplies. The boat is also infested with roaches, so it’s not a pleasant way to get to the island. On the flip side, it is a cheap way of getting to Socotra. A “ticket” costs about $100 one-way. If you’re on a tight budget and have a lot of time to wait, this may be an option for you.
Surfait, Yemen. A Yemeni visa and entry stamp issued at the Surfait Border. Matt Reichel.
How to Get a Yemeni Visa
Yemeni travel visas are no longer issued at diplomatic missions overseas. Rather, all visa applications must be approved by the Immigration Directorate in Aden, Socotra or Seiyun. As a tourist, you are not able to apply by yourself. You require a sponsor to apply on your behalf.
The easiest sponsors are travel companies who are experienced in arranging visits for foreigners in this current conflict-prone post-revolution environment. Much has changed in Yemen since the war broke out in 2014, and now only a handful of experienced travel guides remain in the country with the connections and knowledge to bring foreigners in safety and responsibly.
To apply, you will need to send your sponsor a photocopy of your passport as well as your anticipated arrival and departure date from Yemen. Your visa is issued upon arrival at the border, as long as your sponsor has met you at the border and brought the approval paperwork. There, they will stamp the visa into your passport and give you an entry stamp for a “stamping fee” of $100.
These visas are theoretically valid for travel to all of government-controlled (Hadi or STC) Yemen, including Socotra Island. However, for all intents and purposes, given the number of roadblocks and security checkpoints, you may very easily be stopped and turned away at any one of them, especially in particularly remote or sensitive areas.
A Note on Socotra Visas
Socotra has its own immigration authority in Hadibo. This office is able to issue visas much more easily than going through Aden or Seiyun. You still need a sponsor on the island, but the application process is simple, costs $150-$200 and is issued in about a week. Once ready, the visa can be sent to you by WhatsApp or email. Just print it out and bring it with you.
Note: you are not able to use visas issued by the Socotra immigration office to clear immigration in Mainland Yemen. This means that Socotra visas are not accepted at the border with Oman nor at Seiyun Airport. These visas may only be used for entry to Socotra when coming from overseas direct.
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